Basket Case 52 Goldtop .... Conversion Candidate Just For Me

[ourmaninthenorth]

Your presentation skills are phenomenal, I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying watching this unfold.

A simple thank you. :salude

 

[tooold]

Your presentation skills are phenomenal, I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying watching this unfold.

A simple thank you. :salude

I'll add my thanks, and note that it's not just skills, it's taking the time to photograph, resize, upload and post... and remembering to do it at the right time. I've tried to document a few things and the moment always comes when I have to decide whether I really want to put all the clamps back on to take a photo...

 

[ourmaninthenorth]

I'll add my thanks, and note that it's not just skills, it's taking the time to photograph, resize, upload and post... and remembering to do it at the right time. I've tried to document a few things and the moment always comes when I have to decide whether I really want to put all the clamps back on to take a photo...

:salude

 

[Wilko]

Very great thread. Thanks from me too.

Question. Did you glue on a flat top or did you "pre-stress" it by forcing a slightly cupped shape?

 

[Ed A]

I love this!

 

[JIMI55LP]

Very nice work! You do pay close attention to detail, and it is amazing to watch.

 

[boogieongtr]

Thanks again and I'm glad you guys are liking the thread.

Very great thread. Thanks from me too.
Question. Did you glue on a flat top or did you "pre-stress" it by forcing a slightly cupped shape?

When I make tops they are glued up, drum sanded and immediately stacked with 100lbs. of weight to keep them flat. I take a top out of the stack when it's ready to be cut out and glued onto the body. This way the tops stay flat.

Up next I'm going to make sure I have a 4 degree neck angle on the body. For this I use a jig I made that will get an exact 4 degree angle.

I'll run a router with a straight cut bit to get the 4 degree angle.

"Dead on balls accurate"

 

[boogieongtr]

Some more work is needed to the body. This is the first time I have seen the binding go this deep into the mahogany.

I'm going to remove the binding material with a razor blade.

Binding material removed.

I make a mahogany filler piece.

Dry fit

Next I'll tape off around the notch so glue doesn't get into the end grain of the mahogany.

I'll use tightbond glue for the end grain plug.

I wipe the excess glue off with a damp rag and then blow dry the wood to make sure there is no glue in the mahogany.

Sand the plug flush

End result

 

[guitarchitecture]

INCREDIBLE - THANKS

 

[Wilko]

Awesome stuff.

I asked about the "pre-stressing" not because of expected warping, but for the possible improved tone that is postulated by a few burst "experts" I've talked to as well as BOTB description.

 

[boogieongtr]

Here is a better pic of the inside of the horn. You can see the crack lines when the original neck was broken, taking some mahogany with it.

I'll fill the extra holes around the jack plate.

Some mahogany & glue to fill the holes

Plugs sanded

Here is a preview of things to come. I love this top!!

 

[sharky]

Here is a preview of things to come. I love this top!!

that's just about how my Rossington looks like, all seein' eye and all. Real nice

 

[Joe Desperado]

Plugs sanded

Is this typical of the jack hole for a burst too? (the double drilled hole)

 

[Tom Wittrock]

Is this typical of the jack hole for a burst too? (the double drilled hole)

No.

 

[boogieongtr]

Control cavities up next, first the switch.

How I got the control hole spacing was to make a plastic plate for my 57 GT and bore from the top thru the plate.

I'll use the plate as a template.

Bore the control holes using a centering pin with a fostner bit.

Looking at a 52 Goldtop control cavity it will take a couple steps to duplicate.

First step is the route

Also boring out the two step hole at the input

 

[JP'59]

I'm always amazed at the talent some people have with woodworking & craftsmanship.

 

[J.D.]

Disclaimer: questions are out pf curiousity and not intended as criticism.


Why did you decide to bore out the jack hole? As it is a good identification detail.

It looks as if the mahogany around the inside perimeter of the control cavity was slightly reshaped. If so, why?

 

[Joe Desperado]

Another observation not criticism:

As a long time luthier and vintage guitar repair/restoration craftsman myself, I always try to reduce the tell tale signs that I was there or that any work was done on a vintage piece. On several of your recent conversion projects you recess a block of mahogany at the end pin to hide the original holes from the trapeze tail pieces. You mention this as your trade mark ( I think that was your term). This seems to be much more obtrusive than cutting mahogany plugs that would reduce the tell tale signs by matching the grain. The round plugs (like you did on the back and in the horn) would show much less than the long vertical lines from the block you added. I just wanted your thoughts on why you decided to go that route and not the plug route that you used on the rest of this restoration/conversion.

Thanks for your thoughts and cool threads.

 

[bigtomrodney]

I feel so guilty looking at this thread with my wife in bed asleep. What if she finds out? :rofl

 

[boogieongtr]

Disclaimer: questions are out pf curiousity and not intended as criticism. Why did you decide to bore out the jack hole? As it is a good identification detail. Personal preference and plenty of pics and other identifying details still remain

It looks as if the mahogany around the inside perimeter of the control cavity was slightly reshaped. If so, why? Router bit grabbed and template slid, it's what you call a mistake.

Another observation not criticism:

As a long time luthier and vintage guitar repair/restoration craftsman myself, I always try to reduce the tell tale signs that I was there or that any work was done on a vintage piece. On several of your recent conversion projects you recess a block of mahogany at the end pin to hide the original holes from the trapeze tail pieces. You mention this as your trade mark ( I think that was your term). This seems to be much more obtrusive than cutting mahogany plugs that would reduce the tell tale signs by matching the grain. The round plugs (like you did on the back and in the horn) would show much less than the long vertical lines from the block you added. I just wanted your thoughts on why you decided to go that route and not the plug route that you used on the rest of this restoration/conversion.

Thanks for your thoughts and cool threads.

I do them both ways and my customers make the final decision. Again this one is for me and that is my personal preference.