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Brass or Steel Studs?

asdaven

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2022
Messages
35
Im using a Gotoh Aluminum Tailpiece and a Gotoh Nashville Bridge with Brass saddles. The Gotoh hardware they supply for the bridge and tailpiece is brass. Im looking at locking studs for the tailpiece which are steel. I also have steel studs for the bridge. Some people say you lose sustain with an aluminum bridge so wouldnt steel studs improve it?

Should I use steel for both the studs? The bridge is zinc but with brass saddles. Bushings in the guitar are also steel. I also feel steel studs would be stronger than brass on a part that is under tension. My only concern is with the aluminum is the risk of corrosion with the aluminum in contact with the steel. But are also nickel plated. Has anybody had a issue with that?

Thanks-
 

asdaven

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2022
Messages
35
Aluminum studs are also an option too. But steel makes sense to me for maximum transmission to the wood body then adjust the sound through the tailpiece, bridge and saddle materials. Plus I can use locking studs with steel. Ive mostly played single coil guitars and just got a Les Paul. So my ears like a brighter sounding guitar but dont want to sacrifice the mid and bottom end. The bridge is zinc which I dont like but I went with brass saddles. Im used to Fender guitars with all the hardware being steel and either steel or brass saddles. I think steel gives a guitar a good sound. I know aluminum is a good tone metal too, heard a telecaster with aluminum saddles and sounded similar to brass. It would be nice to have a steel bridge and tailpiece but I dont see anyone who makes one for a reasonable price. But Steel is also stronger. Im running 11s on this guitar and I feel brass studs might snap off over time. Brass is brittle in my experience even moreso than aluminum.

Question about the tailpiece. Can it be run with the studs all the way down against the bushings or is it supposed to be off the bushings? Would think all the way down would be maximum sustain then just adjust the bridge to whatever height.
 

TM1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
8,349
The original's are Steel Studs, Steel bushings and aluminium tailpiece.
Steel studs. I've never noticed corrosion issues.
I've got some ones that are rusty. The nickle plating in the 50's/60's was thinner than it is now.
 

asdaven

Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2022
Messages
35
The original's are Steel Studs, Steel bushings and aluminium tailpiece.

I've got some ones that are rusty. The nickle plating in the 50's/60's was thinner than it is now.
Im not saying rust. Im saying galvanic corrosion or whatever its called that happens with aluminum when it comes in contact with steel. Breaks the aluminum down into a white powder. Different than rust.
 

Winkyplayer

Member
Joined
May 1, 2021
Messages
74
Im not saying rust. Im saying galvanic corrosion or whatever its called that happens with aluminum when it comes in contact with steel. Breaks the aluminum down into a white powder. Different than rust.
Unless you're really sweating into that area, it won't be a an issue for a VERY long time, if ever. And a new tailpiece is inexpensive anyway. I'd periodically inspect and clean it out when changing strings (being careful either to drop or to not drop the tailpiece on the finish, depending on your view of aging ;)), to see if any issue is developing.
 

tdarian

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
3,575
My 2011 R7 and 2021 R9 both have steel studs. I’m the 2nd owner of a 2007 R6 that came to me with brass tailpiece studs. I’ve tried steel studs but went back to the brass on the R6 as I preferred the tone.
 
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