dj335
New member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2008
- Messages
- 120
Hello all,
This is a callout for information from those on this forum who are really familiar with the nuances between the various models of Gibson Les Paul's. I have a 2005 Les Paul Classic Goldtop ("1960" on the pickguard), and I'm really curious as to what the differences are between my guitar and a Custom Shop R0 1960 Reissue (besides the obvious Nashville USA vs. Memphis Custom Shop).
This is what I think is different between the two. Please review and comment on my list below:
Long neck tenon on R0, short neck tenon on Classic
Burstbucker p/u's on R0, ceramic p/u's on Classic
Non-weight relieved R0, weight relieved swiss cheese holes on Classic
Bumblebee caps & 500k pots on R0, 300k pots & cheaper caps in Classic
Pots attached to maple cap on R0, pots on metal plate in Classic
ABR bridge on R0, Nashville bridge on Classic
R0's have a nicer looking case & fancy Certificate w/ binder...
Oh, yeah, my Classic has those lovely snot-green fretboard inlays....
Other than the items listed above, I see the R0 and my Classic to be very close to each other in construction. I met with a dealer product specialist for Gibson at the local Sam Ash store in my area recently, and he confirmed that the two guitars are essentially built the same way, but the Historics get the better, lighter woods. He also said that he can't tell the difference between a long tenon vs short tenon while playing them side by side, and that the wood used has much more effect on the differences between any two similiar guitars then the neck tenons would.
My Classic has a one piece mahogany neck with the thin '60's profile that I really love (don't like the 50's necks - too much like a baseball bat to me), and a one piece mahogany back (many Classic's I have seen are two piece backs, split along the neck line). The maple cap shows below the binding at the cutaway side of the body just like an R0. Mine is light weight, with a lively acoustic sound. Haven't found an R0 in any local store to play & compare.
I changed the nasty sounding ceramic p/u's to nickel covered Gibson '59 Classic & Classic Plus p/u's, switched the tailpiece to a Gotoh aluminum light weight one, and replaced the caps with vintage Westcap paper in oils. I changed the truss rod cover to a blank one, and switched the backside black cavity covers to brown colored ones, so it really looks like a 1960 Les Paul Standard Goldtop (still has the "Les Paul Classic" decal on the headstock though). This guitar now kicks major A.., sounds great, plays great, and in my opinion looks pretty nice. I have a total cost with purchase and upgrades of around $1500 or so.
So how is my Classic that much different from an R0 that sells for $5999? I'd really like to hear your thoughts and replies.
Dave from So Cal
This is a callout for information from those on this forum who are really familiar with the nuances between the various models of Gibson Les Paul's. I have a 2005 Les Paul Classic Goldtop ("1960" on the pickguard), and I'm really curious as to what the differences are between my guitar and a Custom Shop R0 1960 Reissue (besides the obvious Nashville USA vs. Memphis Custom Shop).
This is what I think is different between the two. Please review and comment on my list below:
Long neck tenon on R0, short neck tenon on Classic
Burstbucker p/u's on R0, ceramic p/u's on Classic
Non-weight relieved R0, weight relieved swiss cheese holes on Classic
Bumblebee caps & 500k pots on R0, 300k pots & cheaper caps in Classic
Pots attached to maple cap on R0, pots on metal plate in Classic
ABR bridge on R0, Nashville bridge on Classic
R0's have a nicer looking case & fancy Certificate w/ binder...
Oh, yeah, my Classic has those lovely snot-green fretboard inlays....
Other than the items listed above, I see the R0 and my Classic to be very close to each other in construction. I met with a dealer product specialist for Gibson at the local Sam Ash store in my area recently, and he confirmed that the two guitars are essentially built the same way, but the Historics get the better, lighter woods. He also said that he can't tell the difference between a long tenon vs short tenon while playing them side by side, and that the wood used has much more effect on the differences between any two similiar guitars then the neck tenons would.
My Classic has a one piece mahogany neck with the thin '60's profile that I really love (don't like the 50's necks - too much like a baseball bat to me), and a one piece mahogany back (many Classic's I have seen are two piece backs, split along the neck line). The maple cap shows below the binding at the cutaway side of the body just like an R0. Mine is light weight, with a lively acoustic sound. Haven't found an R0 in any local store to play & compare.
I changed the nasty sounding ceramic p/u's to nickel covered Gibson '59 Classic & Classic Plus p/u's, switched the tailpiece to a Gotoh aluminum light weight one, and replaced the caps with vintage Westcap paper in oils. I changed the truss rod cover to a blank one, and switched the backside black cavity covers to brown colored ones, so it really looks like a 1960 Les Paul Standard Goldtop (still has the "Les Paul Classic" decal on the headstock though). This guitar now kicks major A.., sounds great, plays great, and in my opinion looks pretty nice. I have a total cost with purchase and upgrades of around $1500 or so.
So how is my Classic that much different from an R0 that sells for $5999? I'd really like to hear your thoughts and replies.
Dave from So Cal
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