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Four Uncles ABR-1 bridge just in and...

m bernardi

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Jul 17, 2002
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GOT the 4 uncles yesterday and have the crazy parts. so i have a high- end replica and it has a 63 with a wire same as a 59 but the wire. the 4 uncles looks more like a .59 then the crazy parts. I am going to take it to my luthier who is world class to notch on the 2 bridge and set up. I will do all 3 clean and dirty. going to try to get it done as soon as possible.
 

RyanC

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Nov 16, 2009
Messages
233
GOT the 4 uncles yesterday and have the crazy parts. so i have a high- end replica and it has a 63 with a wire same as a 59 but the wire. the 4 uncles looks more like a .59 then the crazy parts. I am going to take it to my luthier who is world class to notch on the 2 bridge and set up. I will do all 3 clean and dirty. going to try to get it done as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance. I’ve got the Crazyparts limited edition bridge too, so I’m very curious what you think when you A/B them.
 

m bernardi

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534
I think all 3 will be very close . I also have a kluson on another guitar i my try
 

RossL

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Dec 11, 2021
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At this point, my lineup of bridges is as follows:
1. Gibson Historic (from my 2019 R9)
2. Faber
3. Original 60’s patent bridge with foundry mark and original brass saddles.
4. Crazy Parts Limited edition
5. 70’s patent number with Rands saddles
6. I also have vintage MOD brass saddles to try on the Historic
7. Creamtone vintage spec wheels.
 
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m bernardi

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I am going this Sunday to drop the guitar off have it set up and the four uncles Bridge notched and area 59 Bridge notched it already has a 63 on it.
 
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Wilko

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While I'm sure that the bridge is lovely, and you are pleased with your purchase, I'll add this piece of my experience.

I've been through all kinds of bridges and have tinkered with the different metals and all. I've found that the single biggest difference in tone comes from the setup. As the illustration shows, the top version is the most common setup. The bottom is the vintage, or used, many setups filed down saddles of an older guitar.

Filing the saddle to have a larger contact area has the effect of reducing vibration over the saddle and lost to sympathetic resonance. Limiting that transfer keeps the energy in the string making for fat tone.

saddles.jpg
 
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RossL

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Wilko, do you think the width of the saddle, with increased string surface area contact, influences sustain as well?
 

charliechitlins

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Nov 16, 2021
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While I'm sure that the bridge is lovely, and you are pleased with your purchase, I'll add this piece of my experience.

I've been through all kinds of bridges and have tinkered with the different metals and all. I've found that the single biggest difference in tone comes from the setup. As the illustration shows, the top version is the most common setup. The bottom is the vintage, or used, many setups filed down saddles of an older guitar.

Filing the saddle to have a larger contact area has the effect of reducing vibration over the saddle and lost to sympathetic resonance. Limiting that transfer keeps the energy in the string making for fat tone.

View attachment 17006
What does that mean, reducing vibration over the saddle? Do you think more contact stops more vibration at the saddle than a more pointed saddle? Would the more flat one transfer less vibration to the part of the string between the saddle and tailpiece?
Would more string in contact with the saddle transfer more vibration to the saddle/bridge/posts/wood?
I would imagine that keeping the vibration in the string would increase sustain, but I'm curious as to how this translates into "fat tone".
 

deytookerjaabs

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Nov 6, 2016
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What does that mean, reducing vibration over the saddle? Do you think more contact stops more vibration at the saddle than a more pointed saddle? Would the more flat one transfer less vibration to the part of the string between the saddle and tailpiece?
Would more string in contact with the saddle transfer more vibration to the saddle/bridge/posts/wood?
I would imagine that keeping the vibration in the string would increase sustain, but I'm curious as to how this translates into "fat tone".

Without speculating the effect I've been doing what @Wilko posted for a long time and agree. I also prefer a bit more shoulder or "contact surface" on my fretwire too. Really thin saddle with v shaped fret crown always seems too "plinky" for me, could be in my head but I swear there's a happy medium with contact surface.
 

m bernardi

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Had to change the appointment to next monday on account of the bad weather to get the bridge work done. Mother nature some times she a reel bitch!!!! lol
 

Wilko

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What does that mean, reducing vibration over the saddle? Do you think more contact stops more vibration at the saddle than a more pointed saddle? Would the more flat one transfer less vibration to the part of the string between the saddle and tailpiece?
Would more string in contact with the saddle transfer more vibration to the saddle/bridge/posts/wood?
I would imagine that keeping the vibration in the string would increase sustain, but I'm curious as to how this translates into "fat tone".
Sounds like you've answered your own speculation. Yes, the wider saddle stops loss of energy to the pace between the saddle and the tailpiece. More energy staying with the string means more energy for the string to give to the pickups. more sustain and more vibration "fatter" tone. It is a bit more complex than that and my preference is somewhere between, so the pointy saddle and different overtones, maybe more energy to the tailpiece is good?
 

charliechitlins

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Sounds like you've answered your own speculation. Yes, the wider saddle stops loss of energy to the pace between the saddle and the tailpiece. More energy staying with the string means more energy for the string to give to the pickups. more sustain and more vibration "fatter" tone. It is a bit more complex than that and my preference is somewhere between, so the pointy saddle and different overtones, maybe more energy to the tailpiece is good?
I guess "fat" is a subjective term.
I have archtops with wood bridges saddles that, I think, have fat tone.
Theoretically, a lot of string vibration is transferred away from the string and to the body.
OTOH, the most sustain I've ever experienced from a guitar has a trapeze tailpiece and wood saddle on posts.
It has so much sustain, I get confused playing it. The notes just don't decay at what I consider a normal rate.
If I've learned anything in 45 years of messing with guitars is, there are mysteries.
Most of the rules about what does this or that eventually get broken.
 

Wilko

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I guess "fat" is a subjective term.
I have archtops with wood bridges saddles that, I think, have fat tone.
Theoretically, a lot of string vibration is transferred away from the string and to the body.
OTOH, the most sustain I've ever experienced from a guitar has a trapeze tailpiece and wood saddle on posts.
It has so much sustain, I get confused playing it. The notes just don't decay at what I consider a normal rate.
If I've learned anything in 45 years of messing with guitars is, there are mysteries.
Most of the rules about what does this or that eventually get broken.
I hear ya. In this thread I'm talking Les Paul. On my archtops I always change the tune-O-matic to a wood bridge. The wood has a wider contact patch than even a flatter ABR saddle. may even be the same effect of reducing the lost energy to the space between the bridge and trapeze and putting it right to the body where it belongs. Also the wood has a reduced mass compared to the ABR-1 so more vibration (specially higher frequencies) can be transferred to the body. Specially helpful on ES-175. I find the wood brighter than Tune-O-matic and the guitar sounds "fuller" (fatter?)
 

m bernardi

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Jul 17, 2002
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534
dropped guitar off today for set up and get bridges notch. 1. 4 uncles and 1. crazy parts. a 63 is already on it. when I get it back I will let you know.
 
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