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Inlay change on earlier historics

rockinlespaul

New member
Joined
Oct 21, 2002
Messages
2,202
I have a 2000 R8 blacktop that I recently picked up and I would like to change the inlays. In 2000, historics had the rounded corners on the inlays not to mention they look totally different to me.

Anyone here successfully change the inlays on a earlier historic? Also, what inlays did you go with? Recommendations?

Thanks in advance!
 

Steve Craw

Formerly Lefty Elmo
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
5,295
I don't have an answer to your question, but a call to Kim at Historic Makeovers would likely get you some help.
 

latestarter

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
4,173
I used a set of Kim’s inlays on an SG, replacing the rounded cornered MOTS inlays. Not a stroll in the park so be prepared to do some hard scraping and buffing.
 

1LT

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Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
10
Ha! I’m in the process of doing this right now on my 95 gold top with some of Kim‘s Inlays. They used a different glue or apoxy on these earlier historics and it is extremely difficult to get the inlays out. I’ve heard people say that they used a hot air gun to remove these inlays on these older 90s historic but I had no luck with that. I do not recommend the hot air gun method on these older guitar inlays. I ended up buying a Dremel 4000 router and the router guide from stew Mac. It took me about four hours to remove and install two Inlays. I had to go very slow so that I did not damage my fretboard and it was pretty painstaking. One slip of the router and you’re going to dig into your rosewood so remove the least amount of inlay as possible before trying to pop it out Next I used an arsenal of very sharp Japanese chisels, dental instruments, and exacto blades to remove the old glue in the remaining pieces of the inlay. I should add that I consulted with a well-known inlay artist who lives in San Diego and she advised me on how to do this but would not take on the job herself as I offered to pay her. It’s not that it’s difficult, it’s just extremely time-consuming because you have to go very slow. You will need to use the X-Acto blades or the sharp chisel to very carefully sharpen the corners of the cavities in the fretboard. You will still have slight gap‘s surrounding the inlay which you will Fill in with epoxy colored with burnt umbra coloring from stew Mac. To shorten the process I am going to try to get a radius block (12 inch radius block) to use as a sanding block to shape the outside of the Inlays before I glue them in so that they will be closer to the radius of the fretboard. If you don’t do this you will find that you will be scraping for hours with a single sided razor blade because the Inlays will be sitting proud to the fretboard. I’m using super glue to glue the new Inlays in. I don’t mean to scare you but this is not an easy job as many people have said. At least not on these older type inlays. You just have to go VERY SLOW and invest in some quality tools. A local guitar shop here said they could do it for 20 bucks per inlay so you do the math. If that’s worth it to you then it will save you a boat load of time. I haven’t scared you away then I hope I at least helped you with your decision. You have any further questions let me know. Good luck.
 

1LT

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
10
Here is a picture of two inlays replaced. Tiny gaps still need to be filled,

BE22A45D-80BD-4BB6-9D3A-3B3ABDDC88A6.jpg
 

ourmaninthenorth

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
7,119
2001 Murphy..Kim's HM.

O4IIAlE.jpg


SFLBBkM.jpg


HTWKsJw.jpg
 

Hamerfan

Active member
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Messages
791
I did it on my 1999 Classic with Kims inlays. Worked great.
A lot of good points in 1LTs writeup. In my book the router thing is too time consuming and dangerous at the same time.
I read some thread about this topic. Most of them recommended just drilling a pilot hole into the inlay and prying out the inlay with a screwdriver. Worked like charm and real fast. On the first inlays i tried the heater method but it took time and the surrounding rosewood became too hot for my taste and i switched to the pilot hole method for the better.

Look here: http://www.mylespaul.com/threads/the-no-bs-inlay-thread.60997/page-9#post-7727818
 
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1LT

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
10
2001 Murphy..Kim's HM.

Looks like you did a pro job ourman. Yes Ive seen some pretty hellacious inlays on vintage Les Pauls. Did you use epoxy to fill.in the gaps on yours? I tried the drill a hole method but could not get the inlays to pop out. The guy that did my guitar must have been a little overzealous with the epoxy.
 

Hamerfan

Active member
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Messages
791
Looks like you did a pro job ourman. Yes Ive seen some pretty hellacious inlays on vintage Les Pauls. Did you use epoxy to fill.in the gaps on yours? I tried the drill a hole method but could not get the inlays to pop out. The guy that did my guitar must have been a little overzealous with the epoxy.
You have to drill a quite large hole until you see some rosewood coming out. Then you must poke the screwdriver just under the inlay and break out a chunk of the inlay. That job is not for the fainthearted.
 

rockinlespaul

New member
Joined
Oct 21, 2002
Messages
2,202
Ha! I’m in the process of doing this right now on my 95 gold top with some of Kim‘s Inlays. They used a different glue or apoxy on these earlier historics and it is extremely difficult to get the inlays out. I’ve heard people say that they used a hot air gun to remove these inlays on these older 90s historic but I had no luck with that. I do not recommend the hot air gun method on these older guitar inlays. I ended up buying a Dremel 4000 router and the router guide from st GHew Mac. It took me about four hours to remove and install two Inlays. I had to go very slow so that I did not damage my fretboard and it was pretty painstaking. One slip of the router and you’re going to dig into your rosewood so remove the least amount of inlay as possible before trying to pop it out Next I used an arsenal of very sharp Japanese chisels, dental instruments, and exacto blades to remove the old glue in the remaining pieces of the inlay. I should add that I consulted with a well-known inlay artist who lives in San Diego and she advised me on how to do this but would not take on the job herself as I offered to pay her. It’s not that it’s difficult, it’s just extremely time-consuming because you have to go very slow. You will need to use the X-Acto blades or the sharp chisel to very carefully sharpen the corners of the cavities in the fretboard. You will still have slight gap‘s surrounding the inlay which you will Fill in with epoxy colored with burnt umbra coloring from stew Mac. To shorten the process I am going to try to get a radius block (12 inch radius block) to use as a sanding block to shape the outside of the Inlays before I glue them in so that they will be closer to the radius of the fretboard. If you don’t do this you will find that you will be scraping for hours with a single sided razor blade because the Inlays will be sitting proud to the fretboard. I’m using super glue to glue the new Inlays in. I don’t mean to scare you but this is not an easy job as many people have said. At least not on these older type inlays. You just have to go VERY SLOW and invest in some quality tools. A local guitar shop here said they could do it for 20 bucks per inlay so you do the math. If that’s worth it to you then it will save you a boat load of time. I haven’t scared you away then I hope I at least helped you with your decision. You have any further questions let me know. Good luck.

Dayum! Thanks for that info but I know there's got to be a easier way. The final results look great!
 

rockinlespaul

New member
Joined
Oct 21, 2002
Messages
2,202
I did it on my 1999 Classic with Kims inlays. Worked great.
A lot of good points in 1LTs writeup. In my book the router thing is too time consuming and dangerous at the same time.
I read some thread about this topic. Most of them recommended just drilling a pilot hole into the inlay and prying out the inlay with a screwdriver. Worked like charm and real fast. On the first inlays i tried the heater method but it took time and the surrounding rosewood became too hot for my taste and i switched to the pilot hole method for the better.

Look here: http://www.mylespaul.com/threads/the-no-bs-inlay-thread.60997/page-9#post-7727818

Yes, that's right! I forgot about drilling a hole. I know I've read about it here but it was years and years ago. Thank you!
 

ourmaninthenorth

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
7,119
Looks like you did a pro job ourman. Yes Ive seen some pretty hellacious inlays on vintage Les Pauls. Did you use epoxy to fill.in the gaps on yours? I tried the drill a hole method but could not get the inlays to pop out. The guy that did my guitar must have been a little overzealous with the epoxy.

It was a pro job 1LT...far out of my pay grade :laugh2:

He did a really impressive job of it I think.

:salude
 

1LT

New member
Joined
Mar 2, 2018
Messages
10
Dayum! Thanks for that info but I know there's got to be a easier way. The final results look great!
The only easier way I know of is to pay someone to do it but I really could not find anyone local. The only shop I found to do it was a 4 hr round trip away. Your inlays may be easier, who knows? Maybe it depends on who I installed them. I know that they switched to a different type for in later years, likely after the inlays changed to a different material. Just take your time.
 
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