Les Paul Jr. (newbie questions)

[mf-32]

:hmmHello, first time poster (just registered last night)
I recently bought my first ever Gibson a couple weeks ago and love it! (2020 Les Paul Jr. - Vintage Tobacco Burst)
So, after only playing Fenders (Strat's/Tele's) I obviously have some questions I could not find answers to.
While changing strings, can you change only one at a time or must they be done all at once?
(I cannot find any Jr. specific setup video's anywhere)
I am asking because it looks like the ball end will hit the pickup while trying to remove the string.
Will the tailpiece studs move effecting string height and/or will the intonation pre-set also be effected in anyway?
Can the tailpiece be adjusted under string tension or should strings be loosened first?
Can Fret Doctor be used on this neck?
Any other tips I should be aware of would be much appreciated!

 

[gavindale]

Welcome. Nice Junior.

when changing strings on these I loosen all six strings, hold on to the strings and cut them by the nut. Lift the tailpiece off the instrument and remove the strings from the tailpiece.

with the tailpiece off if you bump the studs they may move. No big deal. These are made to be adjusted so restring the guitar and adjust to your liking. I string to tension and see if it needs adjustment. If it needs a tweak I will loosen the strings to make it easy and the tune back to pitch. Not rocket science. same with intonation if your tailpiece has that option.

any fretboard that does not have a poly coating can use fret doctor.

hope that helps.

 

[Bruce R]

Beautiful Junior. I checked these out at last year's NAMM and was very impressed. I have owned two USA Juniors, a 2001 and a 2004, and they were great guitars. The finish on yours is much closer to the 50's models and also like the Custom Shop versions (at well over twice the price!).

A wraparound bridge is quite a unique beast, but I love the lighter tension of the strings. Gavindale below pretty much nailed it all. Personally, I only change one string at a time - IF you really like the action & setup as it is. It helps to just bend the new string a little before trying to thread it in through the bridge. Yeah, a bit tricky.

A Junior is about as solid as it gets and easy to set up. I highly recommend the MojoAxe compensated replacement bridge on my wraparound-style guitars. It is as closest to the original appearance as possible and yet offers better intonation. Some folks are fine with their Juniors as they are, but if you find yourself wanting to dial the G-string in a little better I would look those up.

Enjoy!

 

[mf-32]

Thanks guys, really helpful!
Never having played one of these before, I can't believe how acoustically these sound unplugged!
(compared to what I am used to)

 

[gmann]

Great looking' guitar, I bought one myself last yr!

 

[jrgtr42]

I've been jonesing for a Junior for a long time.
One thing with the restringing, is to make a mark on the bridge where the adjustment slot would be. A sharpie marker would work great, just a dot where the slot end is. I've done that on several of my guitars to keep it where it needs to be.
If you wnat to clean it off, a dash of thinner or something will clean it quick.

 

[Bottier]

https://youtu.be/wtZrWt2VQAI

 

[Bottier]

Wraparound bridge is for me the best bridge. And for you?wra
pWlesaround is for me the best bridge. Your opinions on a subject little discussed?

https://youtu.be/wtZrWt2VQAI

Hello friends. Fervent follower of minimalism, the wraparound is for me the best bridge. Your opinions on a subject little discussed?

 

[mf-32]

Wraparound bridge is for me the best bridge. And for you?wra
pWlesaround is for me the best bridge. Your opinions on a subject little discussed?

https://youtu.be/wtZrWt2VQAI

Hello friends. Fervent follower of minimalism, the wraparound is for me the best bridge. Your opinions on a subject little discussed?

So far, I am loving it, so comfortable to pick with your hand resting on the tailpiece!

 

[mf-32]

I highly recommend the MojoAxe compensated replacement bridge on my wraparound-style guitars. It is as closest to the original appearance as possible and yet offers better intonation. Some folks are fine with their Juniors as they are, but if you find yourself wanting to dial the G-string in a little better I would look those up.
Enjoy!

Yeah, I am going to get me one of those, the "Sitar" thing IS happening on my high E.
I am also looking to replace the posts as when I was adjusting action I may have not loosened the strings enough or maybe this was done at the factory but it seems the intonation screws dug a circle around the posts.(is this something unavoidable and harmless?)
I didn't remove the posts while changing strings/conditioning the fretboard but I did remove the tailpiece so I don't know what length posts to get. (can anyone help here?)
Any suggestions for those that have gone this route would be helpful (also, locking posts yay or nay?)
Happy 2021! eace2

 

[renderit]

Try cutting the ball off an old string and sliding it all the way down the new string before threading it through the tail. The 'natural' stiffness of the twisted part of the string will be pulled slightly back from the crown on your bridge and may take the 'sitar' out of the picture. Looks like ass, but many do it because of this problem. I generally do it on all of mine whether they need it or not...

 

[Bruce R]

ry cutting the ball off an old string and sliding it all the way down the new string before threading it through the tail. The 'natural' stiffness of the twisted part of the string will be pulled slightly back from the crown on your bridge and may take the 'sitar' out of the picture. Looks like ass, but many do it because of this problem. I generally do it on all of mine whether they need it or not...

This works really well, so thanks for posting. I saw that Joe B does this on all his wraparounds and it made sense. Every time I change strings I cut off the old ball and use it on the new one, one string at a time. Another advantage is that when you get a string that is wrapped a little farther it lessens the probability of getting a sharp barb that could scratch your palm. I have had that happen a couple of times through the years.

 

[Bruce R]

Re: Les Paul Jr. Neck Shape?

Has anyone compared the neck size of the USA Junior, like the OP, and a Custom Shop Junior?
I've owned 2 USA Juniors and they both had large necks, but not as big as the '06 R8 neck I once had.

The Gibson website indicates the USA Junior as having a "Vintage 50's" neck, while the Custom Shop Junior has a "Chunky C-Shape" neck. I would assume the USA neck would be the biggest (D-shape) and the CS neck having smaller shoulders?

 

[gmann]

+1 for the MojoAxe intonatable bridge. I put this on all my Jr's and Specials. Get the vintage length studs.

 

[mf-32]

+1 for the MojoAxe intonatable bridge. I put this on all my Jr's and Specials. Get the vintage length studs.

1" or 7/8"

I am not sure what comes with the 2020 USA Model.
I changed strings but wasn't aware beforehand that there were diff. lengths otherwise I would've checked. :##

 

[gmann]

1" or 7/8"

I am not sure what comes with the 2020 USA Model.
I changed strings but wasn't aware beforehand that there were diff. lengths otherwise I would've checked. :##

I put the 1" on mine as I already had them.

 

[DANELECTRO]

If the guitar has 7/8" long bushings as most (maybe all?) Gibson USA guitars do, and you install 1" studs, there's a chance that the stud will contact the bottom of the hole before you have the action set as low as you like it. There are several solutions:

A) Use 7/8" studs instead

B) Remove the bushing, drill the 1/2" diameter hole deeper, reinstall the bushing. This is a lot of work and there's a chance of damaging the finish if the proper technique is not used to pull the bushing.

C) Leave the bushings intact. Drill a 17/64" hole to a depth of 1" or more. The 17/64" bit will pass through the bushing without removing any metal, so its only drilling wood beyond the bushing. If you happen to have a 5/16"-24 tap, that's great because you can not tap threads into the wood, but if not, you can simply thread the screw into the hole and it will form threads into the wood beneath the bushing. Chances are you will only need for the stud to go one or two threads deeper.

 

[gmann]

If the guitar has 7/8" long bushings as most (maybe all?) Gibson USA guitars do, and you install 1" studs, there's a chance that the stud will contact the bottom of the hole before you have the action set as low as you like it. There are several solutions:

A) Use 7/8" studs instead

B) Remove the bushing, drill the 1/2" diameter hole deeper, reinstall the bushing. This is a lot of work and there's a chance of damaging the finish if the proper technique is not used to pull the bushing.

C) Leave the bushings intact. Drill a 17/64" hole to a depth of 1" or more. The 17/64" bit will pass through the bushing without removing any metal, so its only drilling wood beyond the bushing. If you happen to have a 5/16"-24 tap, that's great because you can not tap threads into the wood, but if not, you can simply thread the screw into the hole and it will form threads into the wood beneath the bushing. Chances are you will only need for the stud to go one or two threads deeper.

I hear what your saying but they didn't bottom out on mine. As mentioned, I already had them so I figured I would try 'em before ordering new ones.

 

[mf-32]

Twins!

 

[mf-32]

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