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bigsby'd

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I use brass tubing. Find a piece who's inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the bolt. File a couple of teeth into to it and chuck it in your drill. Go slow. After a few turns of thread go into the tubing, it usually grabs. That's when you reverse your drill and back some of the bolt out.
 

pinefd

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Jan 22, 2004
Messages
3,060
If you can't find a small enough screw extractor (which I believe may be the case), you can try this solution that's been recommended by BCRGreg:

"Get a piece of tubing(steel in this case) at the hardware store that is just bigger than the screw, so that it can slip over the broken part. Cut a piece about 4" long, and cut the end into teeth with a file or grinder. In steps, cut around the screw and pull it out. Fill the hole with hardwood dowel of the same diameter(glue it in) and redrill for the new screw."

I've used this technique myself a few times with quite a bit of success.

Good luck!


Frank


Edit: Hah! Bigsby'd and I must have been typing away with the same solution at the same time!
 

wild.joz

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Mar 19, 2008
Messages
1,934
Thanks all for the support and help in trying to find the less damageable solution to fix my "screw-up"!

Just called a luthier I know and with whom I had a couple of guitars fixed and refretted. He told me he's not comfortable in drilling out the screw from a tiny diameter bit and up... he'd rather drill big and plug (big). I said no as I'd rather try any other possibility before doing that. I'm stopping to the hardware store after work to see if they have small extractors, but I think last time I checked, the smallest were 3mm (the screw is 6/32 = 2,6mm approx.)
If I can't find it, I'll go to an metalwork/ironwork shop near where I live. I know these guys have large drill presses and probalby all kind of bits to choose from.

P.S. : being so stupid is driving me crazy!!!!
 

Steven

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Jul 16, 2001
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1,534
Can you post a picture ?
Or a series of pictures of the process getting the brass post out ?
 

RUFFCUT

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Apr 20, 2010
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1,860
If you can't find a small enough screw extractor (which I believe may be the case), you can try this solution that's been recommended by BCRGreg:

"Get a piece of tubing(steel in this case) at the hardware store that is just bigger than the screw, so that it can slip over the broken part. Cut a piece about 4" long, and cut the end into teeth with a file or grinder. In steps, cut around the screw and pull it out. Fill the hole with hardwood dowel of the same diameter(glue it in) and redrill for the new screw."

I've used this technique myself a few times with quite a bit of success.

Good luck!


Frank


Edit: Hah! Bigsby'd and I must have been typing away with the same solution at the same time!

I use brass tubing. Find a piece who's inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the bolt. File a couple of teeth into to it and chuck it in your drill. Go slow. After a few turns of thread go into the tubing, it usually grabs. That's when you reverse your drill and back some of the bolt out.
+1
 

fjminor

Active member
Joined
Apr 28, 2005
Messages
3,623
Had the same experience with Stainless steel, yes even Stainless will snap. I was lucky enough to have 1/8" of the post still sticking up pass the wood. Once I removed the remaining post, I got another 2" post and coated it with wax and then screwed the post in, no problems. You need to lube the post with something. Also, I just ordered a set of screw extractors.
 

Doc Sausage

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Nov 21, 2006
Messages
1,707
Winer, I can so relate to this. From guitars to cars to a myriad of projects, I have a list of "screw ups." Like the time I decided to use a car buffer on my black Custom...burned the top so bad I had to have it refin-ed. And not a very good one at that.

I have an idea of what I might try but I think an expert is the best advise. Just find a real expert! Too bad it's not steel. We used to weld nuts to broken studs to extract them. I'm not familiar with a wood welder yet. I'm feeling your pain.
 

wild.joz

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Mar 19, 2008
Messages
1,934
Fjminor, the posts couldn't have been more waxed...
I just come back from the hardware store, and sure enough, the smallest easy-outs are 3mm!
 

Gold Tone

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Apr 2, 2002
Messages
6,825
STOP!!!!

Don't mess up the end of the screw anymore!!!


I had this same problem but worse!!!! The screw I broke was the pickup ring mounting screw...you think the bridge post is small!!!


Same as you I could not get a grip on the tiny bit of the screw protruding and the metal was too soft to turn the screw if I did.

Took it to my luthier the bloody geniuos!!!

He did this:

1) took a small diameter bit (about 1/2 the size of the screw) and drilled into the screw at a 45 degree angle starting at the top edge of the screw and into the screw till he was through.

2) took the bit from the drill, flipped it around, put it through the 'sidways' hole he just drilled and used this as a cranck lever to turn the screw out.


AMAZING! I'd never sen anything like that and so stupidly simple and obvious a solution!


Don't mess up the screw anymore, try this method or ask you luthier to try it if you are not comfortable (though seems you are pretty handy).


Good luck!!
 

tdarian

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Jun 25, 2008
Messages
3,575
I get into pickles like these pretty much every time I attempt basic household plumbing. I hope the solution is not too elusive...wish I had some suggestions for you.
 

wild.joz

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Mar 19, 2008
Messages
1,934
Thanks Gold Tone, that idea is brilliant! I did damage the screw a little bit more, but I guess it is still close enough to the surface to try. Worst case, I'll dent the top of the guitar, which I already did anyway with the cutoff wheel... Whatever happens, I guess this R8 will be a perfect candidate for double thumbwheeling to help hide the fuckup!
 

Doc Sausage

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Joined
Nov 21, 2006
Messages
1,707
STOP!!!!

Don't mess up the end of the screw anymore!!!


I had this same problem but worse!!!! The screw I broke was the pickup ring mounting screw...you think the bridge post is small!!!


Same as you I could not get a grip on the tiny bit of the screw protruding and the metal was too soft to turn the screw if I did.

Took it to my luthier the bloody geniuos!!!

He did this:

1) took a small diameter bit (about 1/2 the size of the screw) and drilled into the screw at a 45 degree angle starting at the top edge of the screw and into the screw till he was through.

2) took the bit from the drill, flipped it around, put it through the 'sidways' hole he just drilled and used this as a cranck lever to turn the screw out.


AMAZING! I'd never sen anything like that and so stupidly simple and obvious a solution!


Don't mess up the screw anymore, try this method or ask you luthier to try it if you are not comfortable (though seems you are pretty handy).


Good luck!!

Sounds like it has serious potential. Nice, GT!
 

Doc Sausage

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Joined
Nov 21, 2006
Messages
1,707
Thanks Gold Tone, that idea is brilliant! I did damage the screw a little bit more, but I guess it is still close enough to the surface to try. Worst case, I'll dent the top of the guitar, which I already did anyway with the cutoff wheel... Whatever happens, I guess this R8 will be a perfect candidate for double thumbwheeling to help hide the fuckup!


No worries, it's called "Mojo" around these parts. Remember the Rembrandt of guitar F ups - EVH's Frankenstein! :dude:
 

cjp54

Member
Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
496
winered82, Sorry to hear of your mishap. As previously said, be patient and don't let anyone try removing that screw without a drill press. Your lucky that it's only brass. Brass is very easy to machine and will drill out nicely. You should have left the head alone. I'd get a nice drill reamer that has flutes on the bottom of it and face off the brass screw first. This is so you can get an accurate location for the hole to be drilled. You want it as centered as possible. Start slow but not too small. You certainly don't want to break off a drill bit inside of the brass post. If you get the hole good and centered and use a reverse drill bit (also previoulsy suggested), once you get a bit close to the diameter of the post the remaining post and threads will come right out with the drill bit. I'd get a good machinest to do the job. Make sure that he cleans off the drill press completely and puts something under your guitar as machine chips left on there will do a nice job or relicing the back of your guitar. This will end nicely for you I'm sure. Good Luck!
 

Scott L

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Nov 4, 2008
Messages
880
Thanks Scott. I guess it's wiser to do it that way......

Re: the needle nose pliers part: how can you get to the pieces of metal that are 1 1/2 inches deep?

If you can keep moving up in size there is a good chance you will end up with a thin wall that will pull away as the brass is on the softer side.

If you can get a real clean deeper hold this type of bolt extractor works real well.

extractor.jpg
 

sharky

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Jan 25, 2012
Messages
1,267
Thanks all for the support and help in trying to find the less damageable solution to fix my "screw-up"!

Just called a luthier I know and with whom I had a couple of guitars fixed and refretted. He told me he's not comfortable in drilling out the screw from a tiny diameter bit and up... he'd rather drill big and plug (big). I said no as I'd rather try any other possibility before doing that. I'm stopping to the hardware store after work to see if they have small extractors, but I think last time I checked, the smallest were 3mm (the screw is 6/32 = 2,6mm approx.)
If I can't find it, I'll go to an metalwork/ironwork shop near where I live. I know these guys have large drill presses and probalby all kind of bits to choose from.

P.S. : being so stupid is driving me crazy!!!!

I'd call one or maybe two other luthiers in my area and if they reject the job also, i would follow the idea with the metalworkers, the big drilling press with a big and flat bottom surface. They should easily be able to first plane the surface of the post and then find the ultimate center of the metal to work themselves up in diameters up to the point where only a hair of threads is remaining in the hole. What normally happens on this point is, that the threads will curl out during the drilling process. Last pieces can be shaken/picked out.

I'm convinced, that they can do this centred precisely which is the requirement for the job properly done.

Best of luck to you, could have been me!
 

wild.joz

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Mar 19, 2008
Messages
1,934
Again, thanks all for the suggestions, support and for helping me get my blood pressure down.
I'm going to see a friend this afternoon, who has a harley shop. He has a couple of drill presses of various dimentions, and all the drill bits i'll ever need. He told me on the phone that he has a couple other, less intrusive, ideas of getting that damn screw out!
I'll let you know how it turns (sic) out, and will shoot a couple of photos too.

P.S. : that friend is a guitarist too, so he also feels my pain!
 
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