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Safe rubbing compound for nitro-cellulose?

dnabbet2

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May 31, 2017
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I'd like to try to buff out a small scratch in my LP's nitro-cellulose finish, but the only product I find locally is Carpex automobile rubbing compound containing:

Tripoli (Crystalline Silica) 1317-95-9
Ammonium hydroxide 1336-21-6
Hydrotreated Light Petroleum Distillates 64742-47-8

I tried a little on the inside of the control cavity and it doesn't seem to have done any damage. Can anyone tell from the ingredients whether it's okay?

Many thanks in advance for any advice.
 

Unbound Dot Neck

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Look at Novus # 2 , cleans the gunk off easily
It may help on small scrathes
New guitar look and smells like vanilla body wash
lol
 

El Gringo

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dnabbet2

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That's very good stuff as I just read the product info from the link and I will have to get this to have at home . Thanks Mike !
I can't get everything here that you can in North America and Europe. In particular I don't see 3M products available by local mail-order, but I do see Meguiars BRAND though not the actual product you mention.

I CAN get Meguiars Ultimate sent to my door though: https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-compound.html. Do we think that's close enough? I can try another inconspicuous area under a tuning key or something to be sure it does no harm.
 

El Gringo

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I can't get everything here that you can in North America and Europe. In particular I don't see 3M products available by local mail-order, but I do see Meguiars BRAND though not the actual product you mention.

I CAN get Meguiars Ultimate sent to my door though: https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-ultimate-compound.html. Do we think that's close enough? I can try another inconspicuous area under a tuning key or something to be sure it does no harm.
Looks good to me and follow my advice with a little size dab on a soft cloth and rub in small circles and that should remove the mark . Please let us know how you make out and best wishes !
 

Iguana

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I’ve used Meguiars Ultimate on a bunch of stuff but never on my Les Paul. It’s a diminishing grit compound so the abrasive gets finer as you work it. Use a pea sized drop on a microfiber cloth. I’m not sure how thick the lacquer is on a Gibson but the clear coat on a car is pretty thin. Typically 1.5 to 2 mils thick. I would be more concerned that a chemical reaction might cause discoloration than I would be about the abrasive being too aggressive.
 

dnabbet2

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I’ve used Meguiars Ultimate on a bunch of stuff but never on my Les Paul. It’s a diminishing grit compound so the abrasive gets finer as you work it. Use a pea sized drop on a microfiber cloth. I’m not sure how thick the lacquer is on a Gibson but the clear coat on a car is pretty thin. Typically 1.5 to 2 mils thick. I would be more concerned that a chemical reaction might cause discoloration than I would be about the abrasive being too aggressive.
Yes, I've used diminishing grit compound -- 3M, I think -- when I was using actual auto paint on Stratocaster-type bodies. But in those cases I knew how thick my finish was. Also, a fake Strat body isn't as valuable and special as a real Les Paul.

The current subject is a Custom. The black, I imagine would be okay, but I can try applying a dab on the binding of the back of the body at the end pin and waiting to see if it discolours. It might not be worth it all if I'm going to cause more damage than I buff out.
 

renderit

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I use the old style one grit PPG Ditzler polishing and finishing compounds for car finishes.

The stuff that breaks down to finer is great if you have loads of finish to work with but on guitars without much finish if you are starting with a coarser grit it will not give you the best shine. At least before hitting wood...

If the marks are very fine I would only use those grades called "Final Finish".

And a very light touch.
 

dnabbet2

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Final finish. Okay. I'll check and see if I can get some of that delivered -- I do see "swirl remover".

When I did the Strat bodies, I did know there to be a good depth of paint to work with but that's not the case on the LP.
 

renderit

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I would suggest pulling out an old Yellow Pages and look for a Auto Paint store.

Every town of any size has at least one.

As they used to use Nitro on cars back through the 70's most of it is compatible.

Nothing called "rubbing" should be used.

Polishing and final finish grits are where it's at.

Check in an unobtrusive spot of the fiddle to be safe. But it probably will be.
 

dnabbet2

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I would suggest pulling out an old Yellow Pages and look for a Auto Paint store.

Every town of any size has at least one.

Thanks for the response. Sorry to be slow responding.

I'm in a large city, here in Turkey -- Antalya -- but I don't speak the language well, I don't run a car, and I'm apprehensive of public transit during COVID.

Blah-blah-blah.

I WILL take you up ASAP, but meantime I did try Carpex Yoğun Çizik Giderici from the local Bauhaus. It did reduce a scratch I worked on. It didn't seem at all aggressive.

Tripoli (Crystalline Silica) 1317-95-9
Ammonium hydroxide 1336-21-6
Hydrotreated Light Petroleum Distillates 64742-47-8


 

Big Al

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I've been using Micro Mesh with fantastic results. More control and easier to blend into existing uneffected finish to match gloss without any border.
 

dnabbet2

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I've been using Micro Mesh with fantastic results. More control and easier to blend into existing uneffected finish to match gloss without any border.
Thanks for that: this is a Custom with an "antiqued" finish -- not VOS 'cause it's yellowed on the binding but still glossy -- so having it blend in is concern.

The auto finish supplier is also a great tip, 'cause they will have stuff you won't find delivered to your door.

I'll report back.
 

Big Al

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Rubbing compound works great but takes some effort to do right, I used to be able to do it well but I cannot do it well with only one weak arm. The Micro Mesh allows me to use a precise grit after removing scratches to even the gloss so the repaired section matches the surrounding untouched area. It takes more time but allows me a way to do it. I don't think you'll have any issues with rubbing out your guitar.
 

dnabbet2

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May 31, 2017
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I'll persevere in looking for this product and I'll let you know how I do. The "antiquing" does make the blending important, and I appreciate the advice. Thanks.

I can try and "get the hang" by doing the top on an old Hamer that's already a bit beaten up.

But it'll be while 'til I'm good to go.
 

dnabbet2

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Reporting back, if anybody's interested.

I did not find Micro Mesh but I did find Meguiar's Swirl Remover, so I ended up using the Carpex Yoğun Çizik Giderici (rubbing compound) and the Swirl remover.

I think it came out okay -- I'll link to a small Flickr.com snap ... got bigger if you want 'em.

And thank you everyone for the advice and help.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/36205689@N03/Cc58d7
 
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El Gringo

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Reporting back, if anybody's interested.

I did not find Micro Mesh but I did find Meguiar's Swirl Remover, so I ended up using the Carpex Yoğun Çizik Giderici (rubbing compound) and the Swirl remover.

I think it came out okay -- I'll link to a small Flickr.com snap ... got bigger if you want 'em.

And thank you everyone for the advice and help.


Glad it worked out .
 

hella lai

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here is what I use https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/3m-rubbing-compound-03900-8-oz-03900/7101635-P?searchTerm=3m rubbing compound 3M Rubbing compound , which you can get at Advanced Auto . Take a pencil size eraser size dollop on to a soft cotton cloth and rub in small circles to get rid of the offending mark , and be careful not to rub right thru to the wood as it's easier to do than you might think .
Yes, they are great I also ordered this item at discounted prices. For every driver safety comes first, Advance Auto Parts Coupons can also help you to save 15 % Off on brakes. You can also be eligible for free shipping if your order is over Dollar 25.
 
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