• Guys, we've spent considerable money converting the Les Paul Forum to this new XenForo platform, and we have ongoing monthly operating expenses. THE "DONATIONS" TAB IS NOW WORKING, AND WE WOULD APPRECIATE ANY DONATIONS YOU CAN MAKE TO KEEP THE LES PAUL FORUM GOING! Thank you!

Screw down the Studs ?

bongo122819

New member
Joined
Oct 6, 2003
Messages
172
On my '71 LPDeluxe the stop tailpiece sits approx 1/4" clear of the body. Shouldn't the studs be screwed down so the tailpiece contacts the wood ?
I assume that it would increase the break angle (a good thing ?) and transfer more vibe to the wood (a good thing?).
Any thoughts on this ??
 

reswot

Active member
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
3,295
Different folks do different things. Use your ears and try both ways...
 

(urlym@ple

Active member
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
178
On my '71 LPDeluxe the stop tailpiece sits approx 1/4" clear of the body. Shouldn't the studs be screwed down so the tailpiece contacts the wood ?
I assume that it would increase the break angle (a good thing ?) and transfer more vibe to the wood (a good thing?).
Any thoughts on this ??


Preferably, Yes!

Just make sure the low and high E strings clears the back edge of the ABR1 bridge (would kill your tone). Some guitar can not be set up like these, that's why they wrapped over the bridge, I guess?!:hmm

That's how I set up mine...
 

sinner

Active member
Joined
Jul 23, 2004
Messages
3,704
Up or down depending on where you find the guitar's sweetspot. For some it may be up; other's down to the wood. It will also affect the feel and action, I've found that down to the wood make a stiffer feel and up a bit loosens things up.

I also found that it's often a compromise between those things and how the guitar feel and sounds acoustically vs. amplified. For instance, with stop tail down to the wood, the guitar is stiffer and not as loud acoustically but has maybe a tad better sustain when plugged in. With the tail up a bit, the guitar is slinkier feeling, more opened up sounding acoustically but the trade off is maybe a different plugged in sound.
 

jrnic

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2003
Messages
228
Preferably, Yes!

Just make sure the low and high E strings clears the back edge of the ABR1 bridge (would kill your tone). Some guitar can not be set up like these, that's why they wrapped over the bridge, I guess?!:hmm

That's how I set up mine...


Exactly. I usually screw down the stopbar as low as it will go before the "E" strings touch the edge of the bridge. You definitely don't want to have that happen. I noticed wierd sounds and also problems keeping my E strings in tune until I realized that they were touching the bridge. Lifting the height of the stopbar solved that issue.
 

Edward

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
1,255
...Or topwrap the tailpiece and screw it down without worry.

Edward
 

MRG

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2002
Messages
672
Exactly. I usually screw down the stopbar as low as it will go before the "E" strings touch the edge of the bridge. You definitely don't want to have that happen. I noticed wierd sounds and also problems keeping my E strings in tune until I realized that they were touching the bridge. Lifting the height of the stopbar solved that issue.

Did this on a 335. I'm also using the spacer rings that come with the Faber Tone-Lock from CV Guitars to maintain some of the coupling you get with the tailpiece screwed down:

http://www.cvgshop.com/p50/Tone-Lock-INCH/product_info.html

I believe your local hardware store may have something similar to the Faber spacers if you want to go that route.

Do a search on the LPF for "Faber Tone-Lock" if you'd like more info.
 

mikev

New member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
1,124
Did this on a 335. I'm also using the spacer rings that come with the Faber Tone-Lock from CV Guitars to maintain some of the coupling you get with the tailpiece screwed down:

http://www.cvgshop.com/p50/Tone-Lock-INCH/product_info.html

I believe your local hardware store may have something similar to the Faber spacers if you want to go that route.

Do a search on the LPF for "Faber Tone-Lock" if you'd like more info.

That's what I have on my Standard Faded. I imagine it's the same thing as screwing down the tailpiece all the way tone-wise.
The other nice thing about the Faber system is that the tailpiece is also now locked in place. I put one on my R6, too.
 
Last edited:

dwagar

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
4,453
Up or down depending on where you find the guitar's sweetspot. For some it may be up; other's down to the wood.

+1
There's not an easy answer, it's going to take some experimenting. I like my Custom slammed, but I like my historic at about 1/8" or so off the deck.
 

sickboy79

New member
Joined
Apr 2, 2002
Messages
5,161
It's subjective. I personally don't like mine all the way down. Also - the strings should clear the bridge as well - so that's a guide to where the TP height should be.
 

BobV

New member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
831
Lots of threads here on "tailpiece height" - so it's been said already. But I prefer to use grub screws (set screws) inside the bushings under the tailpiece studs so the studs don't need to be all the way down, yet they can still be tight.
 

BobV

New member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
831
High tailpieces (or top-wrapping) is very slinky and easy to bend but you lose some of the punch in the tone and in fact you can't get the same pitch change when bending a string as far as you can. A lower tailpiece will have a tighter tone and the greatest pitch change when you try to do those three-stop Albert King bends. If you experiment with tailpiece height, you'll find that high tailpieces make the strings easier to bend, and low tailpieces make the strings less compliant and at the same time the pitch changes more as you bend. Many players prefer to have the tailpiece as far down as possible, but with a Nashville bridge you lose that opportunity because there's only so low the tailpiece can go before the strings hit the back of bridge (Nashville bridges are wider than the vintage style ABR-1). Some say the downside of a tailpiece that's too low is the ABR-1 can start to sag and flatten over time. The tonal difference, if there is one on your guitar, has to do with the vectors as the string changes it's angle crossing over the saddle. The slinkiness comes with a change in compliance as you bend a string. Sorry there's just no one clear answer here.
 

John Vasco

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2002
Messages
2,064
BobV,

Can you actually prove this: "...you lose some of the punch in the tone and in fact you can't get the same pitch change when bending a string..." regarding a high tailpiece, or topwrapping? And of course your contention for the alternative?

I have to say I think this is a load of bollocks: "...The tonal difference, if there is one on your guitar, has to do with the vectors as the string changes it's angle crossing over the saddle..." Unless you have the kind of hearing that can hear a flea fart 100 yards away, you will not discern any tonal difference. A bit like that famous guitarist (whose name I forget) who claimed he could hear the tonal difference if different screws were used on his pickup rings.
 

Edward

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
1,255
BobV,
....Unless you have the kind of hearing that can hear a flea fart 100 yards away, you will not discern any tonal difference. A bit like that famous guitarist (whose name I forget) who claimed he could hear the tonal difference if different screws were used on his pickup rings.

I recall reading that Eric Johnson purportedly can hear the difference between different 9v. batteries.
:rofl :rofl :rofl

Edward
 

VintageWoodWorkshop

New member
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
Messages
661
I agree with BobV. I've noticed that although the strings are a little tighter feeling with the tailpiece all the way down, you don't have to bend the note as far to reach a certain pitch. I actually like the added tension because the string wants to return to its original tension more during a bend, making vibrato during bends much more easy to control for me
 

torren61

Active member
Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
228
I prefer to top wrap. Takes out all of the guess work. Tailpiece studs to the body then top wrap over the bridge. No worries. I don't know if it decreases tension or improves coupling (although I suspect it does) but I have a completely different break over the bridge and my LP sounds good to me.
 

jb315

New member
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
147
My guitar tech raises the tailpiece to offset the steep angle of the strings caused by the bridge height
 
Top