Newly acquired Custom - what to do?

[JJC]

Hey everybody. Just got this early 70's custom off the bay a couple weeks ago and wanted some of your thoughts. It's got a lot of cosmetic issues, many of which I've fixed. First of all, the good news: the neck is straight, the truss rod works, the frets are original and in almost perfect condition and it plays like a dream. No breaks or filled holes in the body. Transitional tenon. Now the bad news:
a) It's been refinished with what appears to be a poly finish
b) a couple of the inlays have been pulled out and either replaced or put back wrong.

There were a host of other problems, most of which I've fixed - incorrect pots, wrong-sized pickup rings mounted crooked and preventing proper attachment of a pickguard, incorrect toggle switch, paint filled control cavities preventing proper alignment of cover plates - I've fixed all these. Installed CTS, Switchcraft toggle, and new pickup rings. Pickups are a Seymour Duncan in the neck and an unidentified Gibson in the bridge.

So here's my question - the finish is not too bad, but do you think I should go through the hassle of re-finishing it properly with a nitro lacquer? Stripping the unknown that's on there is worrisome. It was also supposedly signed by John Mayall - but without a COA, I don't think that probably counts for any value and that would of course come off with a refin. The best news is that I got this guy really cheap - about $1000. I'm also trying to figure out if I should attempt replacement of the inlays that are lopsided. Here are some lousy photos:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg124/mogulbouncer/IMG_0576.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg124/mogulbouncer/IMG_0581.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg124/mogulbouncer/IMG_0578.jpg

 

[Kutt]

Sweet guitar, a real eye catcher.

Since it's already been refinished once, a second refin wouldn't affect its value by much. So I'd ask yourself which YOU would prefer- lacquer or poly? If both versions of the guitar were on eBay (in theory) for the same price which would you pick? Go with what you truly want. Maybe tackle the inlays later.

 

[cool hand luc]

IF you're happy with just playing it, fix the inlays and play the shit out of it. At the purchase price it's a good deal and a good player in my book. Don't waste your money on a player. Just play it. If you spend the money to refinish it you could have just got a guitar without issues in the first place. It is probably not gonna get you a better resale refinishing it again.

Just play it!

 

[GlassSnuff]

I agree with luc. Just play it.

Besides, the Mayall sig is cool. He definitely had good taste in Les Paul players.

 

[Triplet]

If that's a Nashville bridge (with Nashville bushings) it's prolly a '75 at the earliest.

Mute point, really. Nice git.

 

[Bass Blom]

good deal! :dude:

 

[Magnum]

If that's a Nashville bridge (with Nashville bushings) it's prolly a '75 at the earliest.

Mute point, really. Nice git.

I thought the Nashville bridge came out in '78.

To the OP, I would just play the snot out of it. I look at it as you picked it up cheap and putting money into laquer and inlay work would just jack up the cost. Your choice, though. Enjoy!

 

[Henk]

I thought the Nashville bridge came out in '78.

To the OP, I would just play the snot out of it. I look at it as you picked it up cheap and putting money into laquer and inlay work would just jack up the cost. Your choice, though. Enjoy!

I would say '75 aswell since it still has the trans tenon, if it has a maple neck(check in thrussrod cavity) i would say it cant possibly be early 70s.

On the OP i would say just leave it, its a Norlin player, if it sounds allright just play it!

 

[JJC]

Thanks for the replies, everyone. My original thought was to refinish it white since I've always liked white customs. But the black is really growing on me and I'm leaning to just leaving it - thanks for the confirmation.

Triplet, I think the Nashville may have been added later - I say that because it's a little off center - not enough to cause intonation problems and you have to look really hard to notice. The serial number is a stamped number in the 900,000's - according to Gibson that could be anywhere between 70-73. Henk, I'll look in the trussrod cavity to confirm - definitely a 3-piece neck.

I'm going to proceed cautiously with the inlays. The shape doesn't bug me as much as the fact that they're sunken below the wood, not properly shaped to the radius of the board. I've got some rough MOP blanks that I'm going to experiment with. Not knowing what those inlays are glued in with is a problem. No luthiers in my area, at least none that I would trust. If I'm not 99% certain I can get them out without damaging anything, I'll live with them.