Get some water thin superglue, the Titebond brand is good from Lowe's. With strings off, put a small droplet on the corner of the effected inlay letting it run into the cavity. Than with a piece of wax paper over it, press down on it holding till it's dry. It is of supreme importance not to get any on the lacquer finish, as it will eat it on contact. Do not use too much or the squeeze out could run over the board, onto the neck and eat the lacquer on contact. This exact mistake happened to me when I first started to experiment with superglue, it also happened to Dan Erelwine, but on a real Burst.
Than scrape off excess with a straight edge razor, polish off any residue with 0000 steel wool, apply a bit of fingerboard oil. Done
...soon...or troll ebay...got a set of buzzy's on friday,(hope they fit)...
I know this is a technique used by some, but I would never do it. I've used the thin superglue many times building RC airplanes and it is my experience that:
a: It is actually thinner than water and thus it runs very quickly. Simply tilting the bottle usually results in a droplet of two jumping out and most likely landing somewhere that you don't want it to
b. Thin superglue wicks very quickly through the grain of wood. So quickly, that balsa wood heats up and sometimes even emits a tiny puff of smoke. The problem is, if you're applying the glue to the surface of the rosewood, its also soaking into the grain. I would be worried about it leaving a shiny spot that cannot be scraped off or sanded clean.
I've had a couple of inlays pop loose on my Historics. I used an exacto knife to get up under the inlay and pop it completely out. I then applied medium superglue in the bottom of the pocket, spread it evenly with a toothpick, and then pressed the inlay into place. This was there's no glue on the visible surface of the rosewood that you have to worry about cleaning up.
Super thin super glue is the only way to go IMO.
Not all inlays pop out cleanly,I know from experience.As for it leaving a shiny spot simple,use a small scraper to clean surplus and a light rub with 0000 wire wool does the job.I wouldnt use the thicker stuff because if it oozes out of the edges you got a lot more cleaning up to do!!
Also superglue does NOT eat into the finish its used a lot by guitar techs (me included) for drop filling dings and dents and finished properly you would never tell there was any damage in the first place.
O.K, me and all my personal experiences, every book and post about it eating into the lacqer is wrong and your right.
:applaude In fact it has the same effect as dripping acetone on it, but only 10x faster and deeper. I'm not arguing it can't be used to drop fill chips in much the same way lacquer can, but to say it does not eat into lacquer is just pure wrong. It's like saying fire won't burn your skin, but baking makes meat edible.
Buzz is right about the superglue eating finish. The reason you can use it to drop fill is that you are setting a tiny drop into a dent or hole in the finish and then polishing it up. So any laquer damage is covered by the superglue sitting on top of it.
If you've ever spilled super glue on a laquer finish and then removed it (wet or dry) it leaves a small indent behind. Eating, sinking, corroding, whatever its called....it does leaf behind a fingerprint that it was there.
Again, you don't see the damage on drop filling since the damage is under the fill spot.
Buzz ,I think youll find that if you were to drop some on the finish,its not the end of the world as it can be smoothed and polished out.
If superglue is 10x faster how does it get the chance to eat into the finish?
Yes it will mar the finish if you try to wipe it of straight away as it will smear and harden but can still be polished out etc.
I thought about your earlier comment before reading your reply, and thought maybe if it does run on the lacquer it's best NOT to wipe it off, but let it dry than carefully remove it. Is this correct? Because it is not possible to wipe it off of lacquer fast enough, the damage occurs on contact. If you wipe it off while it's wet, a certain amount of lacquer is coming off too. Since some finishes are thicker, and certain areas of a finish are thicker or thinner, than there are various degrees of the damage. In the incident I mentioned earlier, the superglue ate all the way thru the finish, right down to the bare wood, gone!!
This goes against all warnings by Dan E. such as to allways keep something absorbant at hand while using it. I've never heard any advise about letting it dry if it runs on a finish. If I remember correctly, I've tried to remove dried superglue from various areas on a lacquer finish, and since it's harder than lacquer, the finish around it gets sanded off while the super glue sits there just about as thick as if it was never touched. I don't see how to get it off without causing the removal of the surrounding lacquer. If I was to try that right now, I'd start by putting tape around the area, than a straight edge razor scraping, than using finish grades of sandpaper, than micromeshing. I've heard a neat trick is to put brown binding tape around the ends of the blade so only the high part is hit. All work would be done wearing a 2x magnifier headband and surgically bright lighting.
In some cases, the thin stuff can be on your hands un-aware, next thing you know your thumb is stuck to the neck, this usually happens when it runs out of the tip of the bottle, you can't evan feel it. This is especially a danger with a new full bottle.