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Four Uncles ABR-1 bridge just in and...

SGFan

New member
Joined
Feb 28, 2002
Messages
21
MrNubs thanks for pointing that out. Do you just use a regular file?
 

MrNubs

Active member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
103
no file

i use 400 grit emery paper or something similar and just hold the saddle between my thumb and index finger, also I'm not doing this to get more contact but to expose more string after notching if needed

what you need to see is that Wilko's pic of the two saddles is showing contact area and that you could easily back file a notch in the fatter topped saddle to have the same string contact as the thinner topped saddle, then you open up a can a worms and ponder, does a saddle with more mass sound better than a saddle with less mass

my FU made a diff. and for now I'm riding it un-notched
 

RocknRollShakeUp

Active member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
701
no file

i use 400 grit emery paper or something similar and just hold the saddle between my thumb and index finger, also I'm not doing this to get more contact but to expose more string after notching if needed

what you need to see is that Wilko's pic of the two saddles is showing contact area and that you could easily back file a notch in the fatter topped saddle to have the same string contact as the thinner topped saddle, then you open up a can a worms and ponder, does a saddle with more mass sound better than a saddle with less mass

my FU made a diff. and for now I'm riding it un-notched
How are the un-notched saddles working for you ? Since that very small, but influential, blurb from JD Simo regarding his preferring un-notched saddles, I’ve been wanting to try the un-notched life!
 

MrNubs

Active member
Joined
Nov 2, 2019
Messages
103
First, I thought JD went back to 11 gauge set of strings and if so would have more force coming down on top of his saddles so most likely move less then a lighter set of strings and second, I don’t know what his saddles look like, I would think that a pointer saddle once it had string pressure on it would grab and hold the string better then a wider topped saddle

anyway

im using 10s and depending on how close you get towards the bridge when bending a note up, I do get some movement sometimes but not very often. Think as time goes by they will seat themselve. Also get some movement from the bass e just from heavy picking. I just relocate if they move.

once I sell one of them the other is going to be notched, just don’t want to notch now in case the one someone wants is the one I’m currently using, nos vs aged

as far as sound with FU bridge, notch vs un-notch - no news caused I’m not notched yet

but custom shop bridge vs FU, FU to my ears has some mojo

400 euro 428 usd for some more mojo ???

someone said on this forum a long time ago, ” I routinely take my wife out for 650 dollar dinners“, not sure if I got that totally correct but that its close

and i am definitely not that guy, otherwise I would keep both

cheers
 

tdarian

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
3,547
I’ve had both 10-46 and 11-48 Pyramid Nickel Classics on my R6 un-notched Four Uncles with zero apparent lateral slippage. The guitar is strung straight through the tailpiece so a good down angle. I use 1.5 Dunlop Primetone picks but I don’t play much beyond the 15th fret, certainly no radical bends.
 

Shields

New member
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
6
So I got two, one NOS and on AGED

both bodies look the same

only diff. I see is that on the AGED the saddles seem dirty, In a good way

both sound the same, anyway, I only need one

both are un-notched

so if someone wants one , let me know which. I have NOS on now but can swap it if that’s the one

i’m in the 48 east coast

paid 400 euro each, only one is available for 428 usd

View attachment 18340
If it’s not sold, I’ll gladly take that off your hands. I just sent you a message a little bit ago. Thanks
 
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