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Your 1'st choice TOM bridge replacement for your historic

Sol

Active member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
775
So many options available to players, please share your journey to the finest tune o matic bridge in design and tone to the originals.
Thanks guys
 

Texas Blues

Active member
Joined
Apr 13, 2008
Messages
4,641
So many options available to players, please share your journey to the finest tune o matic bridge in design and tone to the originals.
Thanks guys


Whats wrong with what historectomies come with?
 

Arnold M.

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2018
Messages
296
I switched to Callaham ABR bridge partially due to the fact that the saddles/screws were always a loose fit in the Gibson bridge, casting tolerances are very loose in comparison to a machined bridge (well at least the Gibson bridges) I got tired of picking the saddles up off the floor every time I was working on the guitar
 

Sol

Active member
Joined
Oct 26, 2001
Messages
775
I am with you on this , what's wrong with the non wire ABR-1 Bridge ?

It comes down to engineering tolerance of the bridge body, the saddles and how they seat.

I do have an ABR 1 from Gibson that is as good as any I've seen, but two others where the close tolerance needed for good energy transfer have been lacking. And a comparison with my good ABR 1 under magnification confirms this.

Maximum surface contact area between saddle and bridge is the key to transfering the energy of the string to the body.
I'm aware that the posts and adjustment discs all play their part but would prefer to stay with the bridge and
saddles for the purpose of this thread.

I'm sure that there are those who are committed to making an ABR 1 that's the equal of those from the '50,s to the early '60,s in both consistency and tone, and I'm prepared to invest some money and time to trying those that forum members recommend.

I'm already familiar with a few but if my historic were a genuine '57 gold top needing an ABR 1 where would you steer me ?

Cheers,
Sol
 

AA00475Bassman

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
3,770
I'm a Hack my stock Historic gear offers more than I can squeeze out of it !!

Disclaimer : Being a Hack has financial benefits - most stock pickups & parts have more to offer than my playing !!
 

maxwedge

Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
674
Whats wrong with what historectomies come with?

I am with you on this , what's wrong with the non wire ABR-1 Bridge ?
Replaced the stock historic bridge on my 2009 R9 with a Pigtail and there was a huge difference but not as much of a change with my 74 custom that I put one on too, but that one is another tale. Acoustically the R9 went from a dull throaty sound, which was fine and sounded great through an amp, to a much louder, brighter, clear and ringing sound after I changed the bridge. I really couldn't believe it, it is almost as loud as my SGs acoustically and it's awesome with my Marshalls or through a tweed deluxe type amp! On the down side, the Pigtail ABR-1 is a bit pricey.
 

tdarian

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
3,575
I find the Gibson ABR1 to be a bit bright on some guitars. The older wired ABR1s sound a little better to me, more warmth and “body” but the wire can rattle. Best I’ve tried has been the zinc alloy Pigtail for sonics, for me. The Faber was better than the Gibson and was the best overall mechanically.

Pigtail won out here!
 

TM1

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Joined
Jun 27, 2003
Messages
8,355
BTW, I did use the Faber until I found the ABM.
 

Keefoman

Active member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
576
Tonepros for me. I've got the aged lightweight aluminium tailpiece and locking bridge with brass saddles on my R8.
 

tdarian

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
3,575
I tried the ABM Bell Brass ABR-1. To me things went way too far to the darker side. I've got brass thumbwheels on that guitar with everything else the stock recipe. I did not try it with steel thumbwheels or the longer steel tailpiece studs I got from Retrospec....both of those parts lean brighter but the brass bridge was way over-damped I thought in a direct swap. It reminded me a bit of what happened when I tried a brass tailpiece...too much even with amp treble dimed and bright switches on.

A lot of people like the result they got with the ABM, it looks very well made and obviously it works well with some guitars as TM1 has said.

Another one that has been suggested to me is the Kluson ABR-1 with brass saddles, as I recall it was forum member Korus suggested it.
 

mustachio

Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Messages
178
Faber ABR. No locking studs or posts though. Kills sustain. Faber because they have tighter machined tolerances, more saddle travel and “C” shaped washers that keep the saddle in the bridge so as not to fall out while changing strings. Had a gig where the G saddle popped out and couldn’t find the saddle. Never again.
 

iknowpeanuts

New member
Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
35
i've always wondered if the original stuff had tight tolerances and common sense says probably not. but i guess for the historic every bit of energy transfer helps.

I love my pigtails; i like how they look and how they sound over the gibson stuff. but one of the screws didnt fit in my tom and the slot had to be filed while my tailpiece didnt fit on the studs and had to be filed as well. for the money you pay for a pigtail i would think that is unacceptable but at the time i couldnt be arsed to file (rimshot) a complaint and jsut wanted to get it done. just a heads up if u choose the pigtail route
 
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