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Basket Case 52 Goldtop .... Conversion Candidate Just For Me

Joe Desperado

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 8, 2004
Messages
1,876
Moon,

I believe that is what he did. He removed every other fret and drilled thru the slot. Looks like he used a 3/32" bit. That is just a hair wider than the slot. So if he just places the frets back in, it will still show. Also, you need to fill the void under the fret wire left from the drill anyways.
 

MapleFlame

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
14,048
wow, great work.

Curious about the holes to steam out the neck. Isn't it possible to pull a couple frets and drill underneath them so there are not holes in the fingerboard? I think I remember seeing people do that with acoustics.

After he fills the holes with Braz dust/glue, you won't even see it.
 

boogieongtr

Active member
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
947
Damn this is fun to watch!

Charlie, thanks & I think you will like the end result

I can TESTIFY! I bought Jim's last conversion & I'm tempted to send him one of my GT's to redo. I can't say enough good things about his craftsmanship.

Jim...no 6100's this time?!

Ed, I'm glad you like the guitar and I got it... No 6100 frets

wow, great work.

Curious about the holes to steam out the neck. Isn't it possible to pull a couple frets and drill underneath them so there are not holes in the fingerboard? I think I remember seeing people do that with acoustics.

I drill on the fret line not the fretboard itself

Moon,

I believe that is what he did. He removed every other fret and drilled thru the slot. Looks like he used a 3/32" bit. That is just a hair wider than the slot. So if he just places the frets back in, it will still show. Also, you need to fill the void under the fret wire left from the drill anyways.

Correct


After he fills the holes with Braz dust/glue, you won't even see it.

Steve, you got that right..
 

boogieongtr

Active member
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
947
Just a couple things left to do to the neck. I'm going to fill in the missing holly veneer with some bondo and a black colorant.
134_zps92f9a612.jpg


Holly veneer repaired.
146_zps6c02ec3f.jpg


I apply a black dye to the headstock. This saves on the amount of black lacquer I have to apply.
154_zps12d74a45.jpg


I steamed out the dings & scratches and with a 400 grit sandpaper lightly sand.
135_zpse5ecd7f9.jpg


One more time for the final fit. I use 220 sandpaper for this.
136_zpsa2c2d568.jpg


Time to glue in the neck with hot hide glue. I use a jig I made that gives end pressure as well as top clamping. I also pre heat both the neck pocket and neck tenon before gluing.
138_zpsf9a58342.jpg
 

MapleFlame

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
14,048
Just a couple things left to do to the neck. I'm going to fill in the missing holly veneer with some bondo and a black colorant.
134_zps92f9a612.jpg


Holly veneer repaired.
146_zps6c02ec3f.jpg


I apply a black dye to the headstock. This saves on the amount of black lacquer I have to apply.
154_zps12d74a45.jpg


I steamed out the dings & scratches and with a 400 grit sandpaper lightly sand.
135_zpse5ecd7f9.jpg


One more time for the final fit. I use 220 sandpaper for this.
136_zpsa2c2d568.jpg


Time to glue in the neck with hot hide glue. I use a jig I made that gives end pressure as well as top clamping. I also pre heat both the neck pocket and neck tenon before gluing.
138_zpsf9a58342.jpg

I really like how you drilled the tuner holes for allowing the original ferrules. Great job on the faceplate too. The jig for the neck re glue will help guys when they repair or glue a neck. The double pressure is very important. Sneak peek at the top carve here
 

moonweasel

Active member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
9,427
Moon,

I believe that is what he did. He removed every other fret and drilled thru the slot. Looks like he used a 3/32" bit. That is just a hair wider than the slot. So if he just places the frets back in, it will still show. Also, you need to fill the void under the fret wire left from the drill anyways.



Gotcha, when Boogie mentioned having to fill holes in the fingerboard I was really shocked for a moment when I thought he had drilled out in the open on the fingerboard, compared to the amazing work he was doing on the rest of the guitar.

Thanks Joe, Steve, and Boogie for clearing that up.
 

cjp54

Member
Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
499
Awesome work Jim! I'm really enjoying this!!!

When you get to spraying the holly veneer can you explain what you do with the Gibson Logo? Does it get masked off or do you paint the entire headstock face and then scrape the logo clean. I imagine you clear over the black? And is the "Les Paul" silk screen under the clear or on top of it??
Thanks!
 

capitalbear

Active member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
1,048
wow, great work.

Curious about the holes to steam out the neck. Isn't it possible to pull a couple frets and drill underneath them so there are not holes in the fingerboard? I think I remember seeing people do that with acoustics.


??? That's what Jim is doing actually.
 

1958WES

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
112
These threads are pure guitar nerd heaven. Thanks... SO COOL! :applaude
 

KS 5150

Active member
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
138
I've seen a couple of Jim's projects on the other forum...he does fantastic work! :3zone
 

moonweasel

Active member
Joined
Jan 20, 2004
Messages
9,427
Moon,

I believe that is what he did. He removed every other fret and drilled thru the slot. Looks like he used a 3/32" bit. That is just a hair wider than the slot. So if he just places the frets back in, it will still show. Also, you need to fill the void under the fret wire left from the drill anyways.

??? That's what Jim is doing actually.


Read two posts above yours.
 

bluesforstevie

New member
Joined
Jun 20, 2002
Messages
12,771
I'll bet this guitar is going to sound terrific....for some reason broken guitars that have been given love and repaired...seem to want to redeem themselves and usually sound better than their newer, prettier brethren...especially when repaired by someone as talented as you Jim!!
 

pinefd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
3,060
This project is coming out great, Jim...as usual! :3zone

I have a question regarding the dye you're applying to the headstock. Do you find that it wants to bleed/migrate to parts of the headstock (the mahogany) where you don't want it, or does it pretty much stay where you put it. And if it does bleed, how do you control, or mask it.


Frank
 

MapleFlame

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
14,048
This project is coming out great, Jim...as usual! :3zone

I have a question regarding the dye you're applying to the headstock. Do you find that it wants to bleed/migrate to parts of the headstock (the mahogany) where you don't want it, or does it pretty much stay where you put it. And if it does bleed, how do you control, or mask it.


Frank

Frank, Larry who works on my other refins does the same thing. He tapes off the sides and I haven't seen them bleed yet after it dries/refin.
 

boogieongtr

Active member
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
947
Awesome work Jim! I'm really enjoying this!!!

When you get to spraying the holly veneer can you explain what you do with the Gibson Logo? Does it get masked off or do you paint the entire headstock face and then scrape the logo clean. I imagine you clear over the black? And is the "Les Paul" silk screen under the clear or on top of it??
Thanks!

I take a MOP Gibson logo
IMG_8272_zpsbba1ce2c.jpg


I glue the extra MOP logo over the original and then spray the black lacquer. Remove the second MOP logo and with a razor blade scrape off any extra black lacquer.
IMG_8273_zps0228a795.jpg


Then apply some amber lacquer.
168_zps4c112229.jpg


This project is coming out great, Jim...as usual! :3zone

I have a question regarding the dye you're applying to the headstock. Do you find that it wants to bleed/migrate to parts of the headstock (the mahogany) where you don't want it, or does it pretty much stay where you put it. And if it does bleed, how do you control, or mask it.


Frank

I use a Q-tip to apply the dye. Around the edges you use the upper part of the Q-tip. It's just a matter of learning how much to use at various places. I always keep a rag & lacquer thinner handy just in case.
 

boogieongtr

Active member
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
947
Here is a template I made from my 60 Burst to lay out the pickups, bridge & tail piece.
139_zps66e6bb8c.jpg


First the tail piece. I run a line from each side of the neck to get center of the neck.
140_zps31a92728.jpg


Mark off for the tail piece inserts. I'm using Retrospec 1" inserts and 1-1/2" studs.
141_zps406e4e7e.jpg


Bore out for the bushings.
142_zps7042f6bb.jpg


Check for correct depth.
143_zps64d6cf90.jpg


Boring for the ground wire.
144_zps21fe16f4.jpg


Ground wire into the control cavity.
145_zps8b326c73.jpg
 
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